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Skimmer's Pogo-Pin Adapter for Flashing ESC's
Posted by skimmer,
21 July 2012
·
383 views
Pogo-Pin ESC flashing F-30A F-20A
Intro:
I'm new to this flashing thing and quads, but I thought other's might what to see the finer details of making a pogo pin adapter I've had some great luck with. This blog goes over the my step by step manufacturing process to make a hand held pogo pin flasher to use with the HobbyKing: USBasp AVR Programming Device for ATMEL processors. Please confirm all pin outs before using your Pogo pin adapter, otherwise you could let the smoke out and bad things happen when you let the smoke out.
Manufacturing the Pogo-pin Plate:
Here is what we are going to be making it is a pogo-pin adapter using raw .063" thick G10/FR4
Here are the dimensions for the plate and the size hole spacing I used. You are going to need a drill press if your even going to have a change at getting these holes away close to the center of the tick marks. I used my digital caliper to scribe lines in the G10 as shown below (my machine shop teacher is rolling over in his grave right now, come on calipers where always ment to be a scribe!!!). I used a #52 drill (.063") diameter. Your going to won't to make the hole tight so undersize them. Depending on the pogo pin receptacle you use it could be a #51 or even #53. My point is the pogo pin receptacle I used asked for a #50, that was way to sloppy so I went smaller to a #52.
Pogo-pin type and where to get them
I went to Mouser to get mine, cheap, RELIABLE, relatively good price on shipping. I like the P100 series, the P75 as mentioned in the forums are just to darn small.
Here are the probe it a simple 300 cone and makes good contact with the pad's with little pressure
ICT-100-B
Here is the receptacle I like the wire wrap versions because their actually easy to solder to.
R-100-WW-429
Ok so now we put the pogo pins in the receptacle and the receptacle into the adapter plate from the ESC side of the plate ( the receptacle has a little ridge in it that's was stops if pushing through the plate when you push down on the pogo pins on the pads of the ESC) Also pay attention to which side of the plate I pushed the receptacles in. you want the pins to look like this when your done.
Now we place a spare receptacle in between the ones in the plate to help angle the pins into a line. You may not get the pogo pins into a perfect straight line, plus you still need separation from each receptacle to make sure they don't short on each other.
Now use JB weld to hold them into place and lock the pogo-pins into position. You'll also notice I moved to a shish-k-barb stick to space the receptacles higher up so the JB Weld can get where it needs to go
Now used ribbon cable and solder the wires in a row to the back of the receptacle. The black wire will be the reset pin, don't forget to use heat shrink to strain relieve the wires.
Setup:
Below is the pin out of the USBasp programmer
Here is the connector end of the adapter I made. I used plain old 2MM Milli-Grid vertical header.
This might be a little cleaner header, molex 87760-4016.The wire colored black is the reset (RST) pin, it gets plugged into the the 6 pin connector of the RST socket on the USBasp programmer.
Remember!!!! when you unplug this connector PLEASE GRAB the black part of the connector, don't pull it out by the wires or it will break, trust me!!
Here is the connector plugged into the USBasp Programmer.
Hobby King F-30A/F-20A Setup:
Here is the pinout on the F-30A ESC its the same for the F-20A,
Here is where you make the cut to expose the pads. See the holes in the pads... we're going to use those holes to help align and lock the pogo pins in place during flashing.
Pogo- pin Adapter Operation:
Here is how you align the Pogo-Pin adapter to the ESC, notice the black wire RESET (RST) pin is towards the edge of the ESC.
Align the out board Pogo-pins with the holes in the out board pads in on the ESC and the rest is cake.
You may need to tape down the ESC to the table to stop it from moving. You don't have to press very hard to make contact.
Good luck, if you find this is beyond your skill level to make, PM me maybe I can help out.
I'm new to this flashing thing and quads, but I thought other's might what to see the finer details of making a pogo pin adapter I've had some great luck with. This blog goes over the my step by step manufacturing process to make a hand held pogo pin flasher to use with the HobbyKing: USBasp AVR Programming Device for ATMEL processors. Please confirm all pin outs before using your Pogo pin adapter, otherwise you could let the smoke out and bad things happen when you let the smoke out.
Manufacturing the Pogo-pin Plate:
Here is what we are going to be making it is a pogo-pin adapter using raw .063" thick G10/FR4
Here are the dimensions for the plate and the size hole spacing I used. You are going to need a drill press if your even going to have a change at getting these holes away close to the center of the tick marks. I used my digital caliper to scribe lines in the G10 as shown below (my machine shop teacher is rolling over in his grave right now, come on calipers where always ment to be a scribe!!!). I used a #52 drill (.063") diameter. Your going to won't to make the hole tight so undersize them. Depending on the pogo pin receptacle you use it could be a #51 or even #53. My point is the pogo pin receptacle I used asked for a #50, that was way to sloppy so I went smaller to a #52.
Pogo-pin type and where to get them
I went to Mouser to get mine, cheap, RELIABLE, relatively good price on shipping. I like the P100 series, the P75 as mentioned in the forums are just to darn small.
Here are the probe it a simple 300 cone and makes good contact with the pad's with little pressure
ICT-100-B
Here is the receptacle I like the wire wrap versions because their actually easy to solder to.
R-100-WW-429
Ok so now we put the pogo pins in the receptacle and the receptacle into the adapter plate from the ESC side of the plate ( the receptacle has a little ridge in it that's was stops if pushing through the plate when you push down on the pogo pins on the pads of the ESC) Also pay attention to which side of the plate I pushed the receptacles in. you want the pins to look like this when your done.
Now we place a spare receptacle in between the ones in the plate to help angle the pins into a line. You may not get the pogo pins into a perfect straight line, plus you still need separation from each receptacle to make sure they don't short on each other.
Now use JB weld to hold them into place and lock the pogo-pins into position. You'll also notice I moved to a shish-k-barb stick to space the receptacles higher up so the JB Weld can get where it needs to go
Now used ribbon cable and solder the wires in a row to the back of the receptacle. The black wire will be the reset pin, don't forget to use heat shrink to strain relieve the wires.
Setup:
Below is the pin out of the USBasp programmer
Here is the connector end of the adapter I made. I used plain old 2MM Milli-Grid vertical header.
This might be a little cleaner header, molex 87760-4016.The wire colored black is the reset (RST) pin, it gets plugged into the the 6 pin connector of the RST socket on the USBasp programmer.
Remember!!!! when you unplug this connector PLEASE GRAB the black part of the connector, don't pull it out by the wires or it will break, trust me!!
Here is the connector plugged into the USBasp Programmer.
Hobby King F-30A/F-20A Setup:
Here is the pinout on the F-30A ESC its the same for the F-20A,
Here is where you make the cut to expose the pads. See the holes in the pads... we're going to use those holes to help align and lock the pogo pins in place during flashing.
Pogo- pin Adapter Operation:
Here is how you align the Pogo-Pin adapter to the ESC, notice the black wire RESET (RST) pin is towards the edge of the ESC.
Align the out board Pogo-pins with the holes in the out board pads in on the ESC and the rest is cake.
You may need to tape down the ESC to the table to stop it from moving. You don't have to press very hard to make contact.
Good luck, if you find this is beyond your skill level to make, PM me maybe I can help out.
